What stores carry SCHEDULE #80 post used for the 750? 750 requires 1.5" Schedule #80 ? I went to Lowe's but I could not find any schedule 80. Thanks!
Seek out a local metal company that does industrial sheet steel and piping. Here is a typical site: http://www.midwayiron.com/steel-products.php
I got mine from a local plumber. But the local metal fabrication shop. Where they make things out of or repair things with metal gave me alot better deal.
You should have a metal shop nearby where welders, fabricators, construction sites get their metal. They will have it in stock. There is a decent chance they will give you free shipping if they have trucks that go out everyday to do local deliveries (Unless you live in the middle of nowhere). The metal shops around our area offer free delivery.
Will aluminum schedule #80, 1.5 inch pipe work for the WN750, or does it have to be metal (steel)? I will be mounting it on my cabin which is about 10 feet high, hopefully running it along the side anchoring it to the cabin. I would like it to be about 5 feet above the roof so I can do maintenance on it. What is the best configuration for this setup? Should I use two different pipes for this? Say a #80 for the top 2 feet or so, and maybe a small sized pipe or larger pipe for the lower length of pipe which will span 12-17 feet, or the full length of #80 pipe? Thanks.
I'm about to order a pipe for my 750, is this the correct pipe I need???? Product: 1 1/2 X .200W SCH 80 BLACK PIPE PE A53 Size: 21' Quantity: 1 piece
That is the correct pipe. I read your earlier post where you stated that you wanted to mount the 750 five feet above your roof. You really should mount the turbine a minimum of 20 feet above all objects within a 100 foot radius. Anything less and the power performance of the turbine is going to suffer. If five feet is the absolute best you can do, then do it. But if you can go higher, I would very strongly recommend it.
Hi, I bought this pipe, but realized it is just a black carbon steel pipe, but not galvanized? I left it outside thinking it was going to be outside anyways and saw that it started to rust. Should I return it and get an aluminum pipe instead? I don't think they have galavanized schedule 80, just carry 1.5 inch schedule 40 and aluminum. I know that aluminum will not rust. Pleas advise. Thanks.
Just spoke to my friend who is a corrosion engineer who specializes in metals. Here are his comments: 1. If you are in a corrosive environment (near the beach or a wet/humid area), the pipe will corrode fairly quickly.It cannot be used without coating it. 2. If you are not in a corrosive environment, the pipe will corrode at a rate of 5-10 mm/year. It will give you several years of service but will look rusty and ugly. Suggestions: 1. Return the pipe and get galvanized pipe. 2. Keep the pipe and coat it. Sand it and clean it with solvent. First coat of paint should be a zinc rich primer. Second coat of paint should be a outdoor rated polyurethane. Make sure the primer and topcoat are compatible. If done properly, the coating will protect the pipe from corrosion for 15 years and the tower should last at least 25 years. Probably much, much longer.
Thanks. What about aluminum pipes? Will they work? They have them in stock in 1.5 inch schedule 80 as well.
Yes, aluminum will work but I would think that it will be expensive. Aluminum corrodes extremely slowly due to the oxide layer that forms on its surface.
Scott, please post pictures of your wind turbine build on the forum if you have the time! It would be great information to have up here for others to see.
Aluminum touching steel is not a good idea because the steel will cause the aluminim to deteriate. On the other hand, that deteriation will be very slow. However, if you have a "paint barrier" between the aluminum and the steel, that will improve the life of the aluminum considerably and for all practical purposes, make everything "okay". (My fabricator told me that).
Thanks for the comments. So the recommended is to get galvanized pipes first if available, if not then paint the carbon steel with zinc primer and paint. And if you have money, then go with the aluminum and maybe add a paint barrier to where the steel wind generator touches the aluminum pipes.
Sounds pretty much like good advice. Andy is correct: Never bolt different metals together without isolation flanges. With regards to mounting the Windtura 750 on the an aluminum tower pipe or any metal for that matter, there will not be any corrosion issue. Without writing a novel here, I will say just point out a couple of things: 1. The metal on the Windtura is powdercoated and electrco-coated. This will isolate it from the tower. 2. There is a plastic bushing in between the tower and the Windtura which isolates the Windtura from the tower pipe. 3. The instructions call for greasing the tower pipe before putting the Windtura onto it. Grease keeps the water away as the two are insoluble. Without water (i.e. electrolyte) no metal can corrode. That might sound strange but it is true: without electrolyte a metal will never corrode. The more salt and acid you add to the water/electrolyte, the faster the metal will corrode. Sum all this up and there is not going to be a corrosion issue between the tower and the Windtura. Now, if you bolt aluminum stairs to a steel fuel tank without teflon isolation bushings/flanges .... somebody is going to be losing their job
Sch 40 & 80 are ratings for PVC pipe not metal. They refer to the wall thickness and therefore the strength of the pipe. Here is guide of the charteristics for PVC: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-dimensions-d_795.html If looking for a strong galvanized pipe, at a reasonable cost, look for well pipe.
I'm not very happy at the customer service here. I sent an email and posted on here to get the correct pipe and no one mentioned anything about getting galvanized or aluminum. They just responded that the information I gave them was the correct pipe so I went ahead to buy it. It would have been "Important" if they would have mentioned or emphasized or "Recommended" the pipe be galvanized. I left this pipe out doors for 1 week thinking it was ok since Windynation said it was the correct pipe. It started to rust. I was going to return it but it had already started to rust. So I tried to sand it down and injured my back pretty bad moving it and trying to sand it and prep it for paint. I'm a little pissed that all this could have been avoided if you Windy Experts would have made the correct suggestion to begin with. THis wind turbine will have to wait until after summer when my back has healed!!! At this point, I might even sell it. Will windynation take my 750 back? Bryan, I'm not sure why you are mentioning PVC at all, as I don't think they are even strong enough. In their manual it states Schedule 80 metal. Throwing PVC in there will just screw others up even more.
Scottc, I had not read the manual. I had watched the videos. Those videos refer to Sch 80 with no mention of metal or PVC. I looked closely, at the one opportuntiy provided in videos, at the cut end end of the pipe. It appeared to be the same color throughout the thickness of the wall. Because of that and the common usage of the term Sch 80 referring to PVC, I assumed PVC. Your post made me get some old books off the self and look closer at the information. I was incorrect in saying that sch 80 does not refer to metal pipe. It does but there are two different standards. ANSI Schedule 80 is for metal pipe and ASTM D1785 is for PVC. By only viewing the videos I did not have the full information, I apologize. Maybe the videos should be redone to provide more specific information, include the word "metal", or completely reference the standard they mean.
I have mine up and it is sch 40 black plumbing pipe. I did NO prep work and just sprayed Rustoleum Black paint on it and have had no problems. I would not even try PVC as a mast. I tried aluminum sch 40 2 inch and it was too flexible.
