Mount ideas for Windy Nation PMA

Discussion in 'Frame Construction' started by Boreas, Oct 2, 2009.

  1. Boreas

    Boreas WindyNation Engineer

    Does anybody have any ideas on making a simple mount for the Windy Nation PMA, preferably using steel or aluminum? I built a basic wood mount using a weather treated plank/tail with a 1.5" plumbing nipple to attach to a 5" pipe (that fits over the longer 1" pipe). The PMA itself is securely strapped to the plank. It works for now, but it isn't as responsive as I'd like when it orients to the wind and I'd like to get away from wood and use something that will last longer. I'm interested what some of you have come up with?
     
  2. Boreas

    Boreas WindyNation Engineer

    I just saw in another thread where I was asking Windy Nation if they were ever going to make a commercial mount they responded that they are going to release one soon, so if it's reasonably priced and solid I think that's my answer, although I'm still interested in hearing what mounts others have come up with.
     
  3. RickPR116

    RickPR116 WindyNation Engineer

    If you remove two of the screws that hold the motor front and back plates together and replaced with a continues thread screw (same diameter) that you can purchase at your local hardware store, now you have the space to attach a 90 deg. aluminum or metal piece with a hold that fit the longer screw and another to hold the generator to a metal base. You need to use two nuts with pressure washer in both ends to hold the generator plates and the new 90 deg metal legs.
     
  4. RickPR116

    RickPR116 WindyNation Engineer

    Sorry, correction. Drill two holes to the 90 deg. metal, one to attach the generator using the new long screw and another hole to hold the entire unit to a metal base that will be attached to the pole or tower.
     
  5. windy_question

    windy_question WindyNation Engineer

    Hi everyone,

    A windynation member, murray2paddles, sent in some photos of his frame mount for a wind generator and asked us to share it with you on the forums. Here goes his brief instructions plus some photos... more details are forthcoming!

    Unit ready to mount on tower. Kept it simple and used an Ametek-type mount. Used 1-1/2 inch tube, heavy wall.
    Just heated with a torch and formed into a cradle.
    Shaped & welded on mounts, front and rear.
    Back mount is slotted to allow the alternator to be removed.
    Front not slotted as I thought this is where the greatest lift will occur.
    Used two of the new rods from WindyNation and they worked great.
    You can see there are lock nuts holding the alternator together on each end.
    Just extended the rods through the mounts.
    There are lock nuts, two to a side, locking the rods to the mounts.

    Used a 2-1/4 inch pipe by 18 inch long to fit over the 2 inch tower.
    The alternator and vane piping are very heavy!
    I increased the tail size to 30 inch by 15, just in case I need a little more wind grab to move this monster around.

    Tower and guy wires are up, winch was tested today. Only used 3/16 cable on the tower winch today.
    Came up real easy but might hold off and increase the cable to 1/4 in. to hoist unit up after I mount the alternator unit.
    Don't want to screw up this close to being finished.

    Will be done just in time. Some of the communities a little north of me have seen snow already. I am just not ready for it yet.
     

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  6. Boreas

    Boreas WindyNation Engineer

    Great ideas, thanks your input is much appreciated!
     
  7. okiezeke

    okiezeke WindyNation Engineer

    Mount looks super strong!! If you have trouble with friction reducing responsiveness, put an oiled bronze flat bushing (looks just like a washer) between the top of the tower and the mount. Available at mcmaster.com up to 3" OD for a few dollars.
     
  8. irv

    irv WindyNation Engineer

    my mount
     

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  9. murray2paddles

    murray2paddles WindyNation Engineer

    I have never used a slip ring but in the future may try one. I have 3 towers and have never really experienced a need to have one due to the wires not coiling up and creating a problem. I do like the new outer housing on the Windy turbines now that they also have the flat section which makes the mounting even easier than before.
    I have suggested to them to ask the manufacturer to line the housing flat section to be parallel with the end bolt holes and this would make the set up easier again ( if you are using the same type of method I use )
    If you do not install bearings for the turbine mount to rotate on the tower I agree with the earlier comment on using the brass washer. What I use is a piece of UHMW Polyethylene, big words for hard plastic. You can get this for real cheap at a Woodworkng supply shop. It is used for making jigs for table power tools. High resistant, water proof, " not recommended for high friction use, but then our turbines do not move or create high friction. I use a wood hole cut saw to cut my outer circle and inner. Make sure you start our outer circle cut first or you will remove the pilot hole required if you cut out the inner first.
    I cut two pieces and insert so they can move against each other on the tower. Probably not needed but they get a healthy supply of grease when I apply grease to the mount.
    [attachment=1:1tyxo77d]750 frame.rear.JPG[/attachment:1tyxo77d]
    [attachment=1:1tyxo77d]750 frame.rear.JPG[/attachment:1tyxo77d]
     

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  10. BeachBum

    BeachBum WindyNation Engineer

    Thanks for all the great pictures. They really help give you better ideas. I'm struggling with how to best mount the frame to the pipe. What have you guys found to be the most effective and reliable swivel? I need something that is "marine" rated. Any suggestions?
     
  11. murray2paddles

    murray2paddles WindyNation Engineer

    what does marine related mean ? ( are there special codes you must follow ) ?
    what size of mast would you be setting your turbine on ?
    What size of turbine and blades do you intend to mount /
     
  12. TomT

    TomT WindyNation Engineer

    This is what I just put up . Had to do cause cause it is going up on the roof and can't make much noise cause I have concerned renter.
     

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  13. TomT

    TomT WindyNation Engineer

    2nd picture I welded and bent the metal around the circle as I welded.
     

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  14. TomT

    TomT WindyNation Engineer

    I put one on each side and a bushing in between them.
     
  15. murray2paddles

    murray2paddles WindyNation Engineer

    Tom,
    Real nice job. Did you offset the mount to the bushing on purpose for a furling set up ?
    What do you use on your pole to keep your mount / bushing from dropping down ?
    thanks for the other info you sent to me. still laughing

    murray
     
  16. TomT

    TomT WindyNation Engineer

    Murray,

    I did the 5 inch offset for the furling tail. I have about 3 1/2 inches of 2 inch pipe between couplers with a homemade spacer in between the bearings. I crank the couplers all up till tight and then pinned the couplers with 1/8 inch roll pins and red thread locker. Have to remember I live in a city and can't have it tumbling down the roof. Will have it up on the roof in a few weeks and will post pictures.

    TomT
     
  17. BeachBum

    BeachBum WindyNation Engineer

    To answer Murray's questions, I live at the beach. My house is literally built on the sand dune. EVERYTHING here rusts. It's pathetic. I just received my WindyNation PMA today, and am putting together ideas on how best to mount it. I have not decided what size pipe to use yet, so I am open to the suggestions of others who have more experience in these matters. Thanks BeachBum
     
  18. TomT

    TomT WindyNation Engineer

    I tried 2 inch aluminum and it bent too much at 18 feet long. My rig weighs 70 lbs. It may be over kill but don't want to buy twice. I will be using 2 inch heavy wall pipe from the local plumbing shop with 10 feet in the attic and 11 feet over the roof line. Will post and send pictures later.
     
  19. murray2paddles

    murray2paddles WindyNation Engineer

    Hey guys I just put up a new clothes line pole and community flower pot pole yesterday using aluminum. Clothes pole was 2 1/2 inch by 14 ft and the flower pole was 1 1/2 in by 14 ft
    Neither alone could carry the weight so I put them into the ground at 2 ft and then poured a cement base, next morning I filled them both with cement.. They are curing now and in a few days will be ( rock) hard and solid.
    It might be possible for you to use aluminum for the beach but I am not sure of your next steps when it comes to attaching a mount at the top. Some metals do not mix well with aluminum.
    This of course would mean encasing your wire in the cemented pole also and using a slip ring on the top.
    I guess you could also do the same with a metal pole to protect it from salt / rusting on the inside and just keep the outside painted up good with a marine paint.
    Just thought of a way we used to do playground pipe capping. We just shoved coiled wire into the top 6 in. Pushed the wire down 4 inch and capped that 4 in with cement. If you use a metal pole the inside would then be protected ? ! and you could use a metal mount to attach your turbine. ( still using a slip ring at the top )
    Let us know how high you wanted your pole, free standing or with guy wires etc.
     
  20. BeachBum

    BeachBum WindyNation Engineer

    Thanks Tom & Murray,
    After hearing you guys I'm considering 2" schedule 80. I don't know how long they sell it in one section. I thought I might try to attach it to the side of the house. My house foundation elevation is pretty good at roughly 25 feet above sea level, and the house is just under 35 feet tall (3 stories). I'm not sure how high above the roof line I can go (10 feet?), but the PMA should be in some good wind at that total height (approximately 60 feet) above sea level. I was thinking about placing it on the NE corner of the house to take advantage of the normal wind direction. Here's a picture from the 3rd floor balcony where I hope to mount the PMA. I'm also looking into Lightning / Grounding options & the best way to interface the slip ring with the frame and bearing surface, if you guys have any suggestions or close up photos of this area.
    BeachBum
     

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