A quick decal I had made today that I finally got one hho gen feeding into a pvc elbow nutted and epoxied to the air breather on the mildy built 350 It has no sensors to fool so I only need to retard the timing alittle as I add more.Wired it to nitrous flip switch inside and will be running a digital amp meter once it gets here from china...I could notice the increase in power!!
Q1) Are you producing the HHO from a 12V source under the hood? If yes then how many amps does the device draw? Q2) Do you need to create more and release more HHO as the RPM's increase to maintain a constant "HHO to Air" ratio? I ask this because you state that you need to "retard the timing a little". I am thinking the amount you need to retard timing now depends on the "HHO to Air" Ratio which will vary with RPMs.
Am drawing around 20 amps withthis one wet cell. I will be putting the next one on a PWM to control the output via a dial. The more hho you put in,,, the later the spark needs to be for the explosion to push down a already moving down piston. Gas burns so slow that the spark happens while the piston is still traveling up and if you add to much HHO without changing this you will lose horsepower or burn a hole in the piston like the dragsters due with faulty timing/nitrous... I like large wet cells that carry enough water to not worry about heat/steam..I am against bubblers I have blown up a 20z pop bottle and it was VERY powerful..A 2 or 3L bubbler would do major damage! Dry cells put out more hho but also boil and make steam so you have to have some sort of catch to make sure no steam/water goes into the motor..The smaller the better.. I am guessing I am only hitting 2l a minute and will do some tests in the future for accurate measuring.. I will post pics of the wet cells I will be selling in the future soon..
If you are drawing 20 Amps from your Car's Alternator then you are consuming about 300Watts. Given: less than 100% efficient alternator then you are consuming about 1HP from engine Given: less than 100% combustion (ie heat) then you are adding less than 1/2 HP back into the engine. I do not see how this "helps" to increase MPG, in fact, it should decrease your MPG.
I can not make you a believer,so with that being said all you can do is try it.Most fail because they dont take the right steps with cars that have sensors that will fight the clean exhaust... I truly believe that because we are only UNLOCKING the molecule that it takes LESS energy than it produces. Running a generator that puts out more wattage than what you consume is proof of that and it has been done. Those large amounts of hydrogen are dangerous , so the main goal is just to produce enough for clean burns and if we got off our asses as a country and pushed the algae oil we could become independant on ourselves..
Blue, your project is way over my head in comprehension but I really enjoy following this thread, just keep going man, it's great ! Hope everything is good at the kennels. Mur
Do you have a web link to this generator that puts out more wattage than it consumes? What are the "right steps" ? Are you allowed to publish them? If you did then most of us would not fail.
theres a few different videos on you tube,whether they are hoaxes is the only grey area..I know what it has done for my car and that is the only 100% I know.. Steps,,,You have to buy the right electronics to manually change the air/fuel ratio via the map/maf sensor..When the o2 sensor reads a oxygen rich exhaust it tells the ecu that the motor is running to lean and needs to dump more fuel into the mix. That will produce worse mpg than before installing a generator. You are able to get all the energy from what would be normally unburned fuel..Thats why these multiple spark plugs claim better fuel mileage. You are getting the same effect by having a explosive gas in the air along with more oxygen..
I put a small bottle of peroxide in it today,was alittle nervous but the scientist in me said more oxygen equals cleaner burn even yet...I have to get this digital amp meter hooked up but it looks like I have to run power wires to the shunt.I was hoping to use the actual power feed but I assume its to many direct amps into the unit and thats why the shunt is used..My idle is on the high end and I get some pre ignite on higher revs, Turned my distributor about a 1/8 of a inch to retard and this fixed it...I am floored by the results and wish I could take you guys for a ride.. A rebirth for the carbuerated motor....
The benifits of the h2o2 only lasted for about 20 minutes of driving,my conclusion is that the peroxide is only 3% and the rest distilled water.It unlocked the extra O2 and turned the whole amount back to the distilled water that was in it..Could make for a good extra cell and a "boost" when turned on..Would love to run the strip with/without it for true comparision
Ok i melted my switch,,need help..This doesnt make sense as the neg dc goes to the battery and the load pos goes to a 30(will change over to a 25A with new switch) amp fuse and a (25amp)switch to complete the circuit from battery to hho generator. I didnt even get to put any supply voltage to it...Should the neg load just be a metal screw to the frame and not the battery?What did I do wrong?
So the shunt is suppose to only have a positive charge run thru it instead of a ground and a positive..Thats what didnt make sense cause you were basically short the battery by the drawing..I will try that out and Thank you much Mr TOM T
But tom,That is the back of the amp meter in the picture I can not hook it up that way? I do have a mechanical that i think needs a shunt and I can try it that way to get a idea of what amps I am pulling with the amount of electrolyte in the water. I really want this digital amp meterin the car though.
so your saying that both screws on the shunt should complete the positive circuit in line with the switch? while the negative doesnt touch the shunt? If thats the case why do I have to supply another feed for the supply line..not a biggie,just trying to "get it"..
This is how it should be hooked up. Had to look at mine. Has been awhile. I had to run my digital meter from another battery cause it would not read right. But that depends on the meter.
Sorry havent been back to update,,Been real busy and now have puppies to help care for..In the drawing it should show the load as the bottom of the positive in line...The shunt is only connected in the positive feed and does not have the negative touch it.. I am pulling about 18 amps with a hot cell so instead of trying to up it another will be added at the same electrolyte solution but also on a PWM to control the output. I know in 5th now I barely have to give it very little gas to cruise at 55 so varying the second cell will be a must.. I know this isnt wind related but is a part of what I do so I had to post...Focusing on solar the next few months and will add more towers toward the end of summer...I am running my solar in 2 panel series and feeding to multy 22-60 v GT and am getting awesome results daily and good numbers even in overcast..Solar is boring but more bang for the buck...Wind is fun to watch working...
