Grid Tie Inverters

That circuit is only to show placement of the Grid Tie. Not the whole circuit. Sorry should have stated that.

 

This is the way it is hooked up.
[attachment=0:26lyg6xe]GridTie3 002.jpg[/attachment:26lyg6xe]



Just for testing the Grid Tie. 10 amp fuse is to protect the unit. Voltage has never been above 30v even at 50 mph. We are going to have light winds starting tomorrow for a few days. This thing needs 20w to start working. I will check my amp meter at the battery against the kill-a watt. Should tell me how well it is diverting. If I was going to leave it like this. A 600w Grid Tie would be the minimum I would use. This just something for me to check while waiting for the transformer to get here.

 

Keep us posted on results Tom and thanks for sharing the circuit so we can see what you're working with.

 

Here is my system"

Electrical specifications:
D/C side:#10(30a) wire form ea. rectifier
#6(60a) wire from combinde turbines to main inverter buss bars
#10(30a) wire to ea. inverter
#10(30a) wire to dump load connection)
3 50 amp D/C fuses 1 per turbine
50 amp restifiers
75mV shunt bar just in case-options
Alumin. mechanical lugs for connections for larger wires-not crimps
1000w dump load but will need bigger
automatic dump load controll with electric A/C braking for utility outage as well as general braking.
Battery capbaility

A/C side:
#10(30a) 240 volt circuit form the main electrical panel with a 2 pole 30amp circuit breaker
#12(20a) wire for all A/C connections inside the control system
(2) 20 amp circuit breakers for 120v per kW meters.
#6 ground wire for bonding the inside enclosure-over kill #12 20a is fine
Running 240v will allow a more balance system. each Leg(L-1-L2) gets power to the main panel not just one leg.
Inverters will run more efficiant.
2 remote digital volt meters in 2 different places of the home 12v power supply to work rated 200v/unit
(2) kW meters for real time watts located inside the unit.
Digital monitoring sytem on the front (not installed yet, on it's way) via usb to the computer for real time watt,amps volts.
Upto 4 sun g 500w grid tie inverters, currently 2 shown in the vid as explained.

Hope this answers any questiions. Now I just need more solar and wind.lol


See the vidAlmost complete guy's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IP9Oe2wo_EM

 

Being this Sun-300G comes with a brief manual that does not have anything in it but," When Green lights are flashing it is working OK¨. So when the fault light starting flashing from the beginning I thought I had a problem.
Now for the real story so you do not think it has a fault or it is broke.
----------------------Wind or solar.
When voltage is low and is present and rising the Red LED will flash.
When it reaches start-up power level. Red LED stops flashing and Green comes on steady.
After syncing with GRID and starting to put power in to GRID last 2 Green LEDs start cycling Back and forth.
----------------------I hope this clears things up for anyone who buys one.

 

morning Tom
your info will probably help some I am sure.

Mine seemed to be a no brainer to understand. , I just hooked up, plugged in, seen the lights indicate grid power and when incoming V were detected and then the lights indicated how much watts / volts where being produced.
I just stood back and watched my kilo watt meter tell me nice things for a change.

For use on wind / solar,,, check with Larry on that one, he has tested the wind model on solar and can tell you the results.

My AC model 500 Sun has been returned and my DC 500 is on its way.... hurray.
No kidding these inverters give you watts on the low wind speed where in the past you just sat and watched your mill turning and looking good but giving nothing in return until the wind picked up to higher mph.

 

I just saw a video on Youtube where a guy was not getting alot of watts out into the grid and added another Grid Tie and his watts into the grid went up. It was not a sun or power jack some other brand.
I also see alot of videos about repairing Power Jack Models. Some are customer errors. Changing output from 230v to 115v while still plugged in. :shock: Drilling hole in case to add a fuse holder. Please take apart first and make sure there is room. Course taking apart will kill warranty. I think he slipped and went too far. Drilled a choke coil. :shock:

 

Also forgot to bring up. Power Jack Grid Tie uses approx 20w while tied to grid with no input. Sun Grid Tie shuts down with no input and draws 0 watts.

 

Power Jack 1200 while on stand by waiting for some wind.
No watts used !
[attachment=0:85pbzt2h]powerjack watts standby.jpg[/attachment:85pbzt2h]

 

Thanks Murray
They were using a 500w but it is a few years old so maybe they have made changes.
Anybody with a watt meter and a different brand or wattage and let us know how long you have had it .
Please post what yours is with no input. Maybe this is just propaganda again against Power Jack.

 

Hi Tom,
The sun G 500 watt grid tie wind rated inverter uses 2.5 va on stand by.
I would recommend to you that you use an inverter that disconnects at a higher voltage like the sun g that is strickly RATED FOR WIND TURBINES ONLY. These are not for a sloar installation.This is the only inverter I have found that has this over volt feature protection system. The one you purchased is for solar not wind. I know it says wind but when the amps and volts come in from a high wind it will go poff!! I have tested your type with wind and got costly results. The sun g elliminates buying other components to combat these over voltage problems. I too have tried a relay system. ziner diodes, complicated circuitry, batteries ect. for an over voltge protection system. It is costly to do this. Getting the Sun G for wind elliminates all of this cost and makes things more simple. It also allows for lower wind speed production which is money back in your pocket. I have found very easy solutions to use this inverter that require a low cost installation. If you would like to know more information please contact me and I would be happy to assist you with more information. I am not selling anything but merley trying to help show people that micro wind does not have to be so complicated and expensive.
I hope this helps in your quest for free watts.
Larry

 

My turbine is voltage limited to the battery and I have a 10 amp fuse inline. I am pulling current off the line between the 2 diodes. I am just testing right now till I get solar panels.

 

So far I checked it and the circuit is busted. Inverter is Tied Down to 15v max. It cuts in at about 15v and puts power into the grid. At 12.5 volts it drops out. I have low wind so disconnected the cap side to get output. It is a working unit.

 

Have a question.
Which watt meter does everyone use to measure power going back to the grid? I just killed my second RYOBI power usage meter.

 

Hey Tom, I use Kill-A-Watt.

 

Tom,
I havev 3
All are Kill- A- Watt P3

 

Thanks
I just got back from home depot and exchanged my old one for a Kill-A-Watt P3.

 

New Grid Tie 500w Hybrid Wind/Solar CTP-500W.
Waiting for an answer on this grid tie. Says not to go over 28v but is also a wind/solar hybrid grid tie. Connected it off between the two series diodes and see 75w and less. Connect it direct see 120w or less. Voltage went as high as 25 volts direct connect.

 

Tom, if you are gonna be going direct you should think about a 22-60v sun-g 600w...

 

This one will be for solar only.
I am just checking output right now as I have never seen more than 200w out of mine yet. It also brakes the turbine to a halt under 15 mph. That is why doing tests on it.