Thanks Ron And Josh for putting Wiring Methods back up. I am putting this up because I had two other people want to see a diagram of my setup. This will be a lot easier for them to find. It has been a year and I have not burnt up any Wind Grid Ties. The pictures and diagram I am posting is for this system. It has made it through 0-55 mph gusts and power outages. My system never sees much in the way of steady winds. Also I have 900 watts of dump resistors. 600 watts got hot too fast and 900 watts only gets warm. You have to be around for at least one wind event to get it set right. The switch is a VCS-1H they have doubled in price since I installed it and gave the circuit to the manufacturer. JayCar has one but has to be put together. Just search on the site for Voltage Controlled Switch.There is also an open source charge controller that could also be built and used in the place of this switch. The switch has to be used with a Heavy Duty relay as the relay on the board will only handle 16 amps and I have already melted one before I added the Heavy Duty relay. Replacement relays for the board are cheap and easy to replace. The heat sink for the diodes is 3/4 inch copper pipe flattened out. Diodes are 40 amp just because that is what I had and a bit of overkill. The reason I use the 24 volt battery tie is: 1. To help charge the batteries to power the voltage switch. 2. To engage the heavy duty relay. 3. To help slow down the voltage rise when the power is out and hold voltage down for the delay in the switch. 4. Slow the voltage rise down while the Grid Tie is recalculating. On the last note. If you do not use the battery tie. The relay will chatter due to wild voltage swings when the dump is engaged. Voltage will drop too fast and switch will disconnect the relay and dump and reconnect and disconnect and so on. Also as a final note. When the dump is engaged it still puts 300 watts into the grid. And 99 percent of the time the voltage never goes over 22-24 volts so the battery tie never comes into play.
