Will this destroy the batteries as long as its dumping constantly in to the grid? Theres constant flow so I dont know if a higher voltage would hurt the bank..I dont want to buy all new grid ties to run on a 24v system just yet..The turbine usually only puts out around 14(gotta change the gears) but we have had gale force winds today and it has been pumping out 15-16 thru the battery all day...seen 405 watts at one point but the turbine was spinning to fast for my liking.. I see how these things could tear apart from freewheeling I love how I have had all this week of these winds to study for improvement... :mrgreen:
I would say that the batteries will be fine but it suggests that you don't have enough grid tie capacity. Many chinese GTIs seem to put out about 50-70% of the nameplate watts. Recent tests: Power Jack 300 - 200w when cool, 143W when hot. 14V start SUN250 - 150w - 14V start Green Star 400 - 200w - 10.6V start Power Jack 600 - 200w when hot. 14V start (AVOID) Power Jack 1200 - 600w when hot. 24V start SF GTI 500 - 360W. 12.5V start <---recommended
I have 4 grid ties ran in parallel. So when I change the gears this week I better throw some 4 gauge wire from the battery to the grid ties instead of this temporary 10 gauge clipped wire..You think its creating the buildup of voltage into the battery...I have noticed the volts work up and then fastly lower to rise again almost like filling a pool and then some spilling out fast then stopping draining to reach a level to spill fast again..
Charge controller was shipped yesterday...colemain air 3400 watt.144 amp...I dont want to see my diversion load switching on and off non stop all day..Only if the grid goes down..I bought a heavy duty rack and will get away from 1 battery and hook up the agm 80a deep cells soon..Maybe that will help with a smooth volt regfulation..
I unlocked 50 watts at peak by just replacing the 10 gauge wire connecting the grid ties to a 4 gauge 1000 strand wire!..I cant wait to see what happens when this 30 foot 10 gauge wire bringing in the dc is converted to the 4 gauge...I might just see 100+ added watts!
sorry,I should of been more clear.The new 4 gauge feed in is for the solar pole frame..I do see this in the future for the turbine though.Gonna be at least $200 for this amount of wire and I will need to run a shovel to bury the pvc conduit.. Thats why I am almost thinkin about putting a pvc weatherproof box and putting a rectifier in there. I want to run 3 towers close together and not going to run this thick and expensive wire for each..I could then bring all 3 turbines juice thru this wire as dc..hmm :?:
Bluejay, You can check the specs of your particular battery to see what the manufacturer recommends. 14.5 volts is probably a little too high but you can fix this problem with a charge controller and proper dump load.
I want my charge controller to only kick on if the grid goes down.You will lose alot of efficiency if the GR ties have to ramp up alot... Why not run 24v system and drain two cheap batteries to 14 volts from the grid ties..Then power goes out and the batteries have to fill to 25 volts before a dump kicks on..This would only be small cheap "turbine voltage clamps,not reserve(good agm's)
I'm just geting started but dump loads make me a little nervous. I had an Ametec 40 volt with a 4 foot blade with no load and one day with high winds I got scared I wanted to slow it down so I shorted the wires and it did stop but apparently after doing it a few times, the arbor started slipping on the Ametec's shaft and eventually the blade was spinning without the motor spinning. This did 2 things. It actually changed the diameter of the shaft and put metal shavings into the Ametek which locked up the bearings. The repairman explained this to me.
Hi Andy one style of dumpload would be what Windy N. sells. after your batteries build up to a set amount of Volts a controller dumps a set amount of Volts to the coil(s) so that the battery bank will stay within its safe working state. another dumpload is a controller that senses an excessive amount of V being produced by your turbine and sets off a curcit that shorts out the turbine causing it to stop. Much like you have described. this type also requires a much heavier wiring to handle the amount of heat build up. the best combination to this type is also using a furling mount that will take your turbine out of true wind during a heavier than normal wind Sorry to hear about your a Ametec. if you are still wishing to us an Ametec, I can send you one. All you have to do is cover the shipping. murray
