Hello WindyNation Community, I have a newly installed off-grid hydro/solar system using many parts from WindyNation. It is very exciting to have this project working, after 1 year of planning and waiting. I have a question related to Amps in the system, because I am a novice when it comes to all things electricity (though I think I have gotten far in the last year). Below is the wiring diagram for my system: As you can see, my hydro part is pumping out 30amps. I can read 30amps throughout the system on my multimeter. However, when I turn Off the hydro at the switch I have installed, the hydro generator (an old 24v truck generator) stops producing for the system (it has a voltage regulator), but my system still reads, at the battery, 30amps. My problem is that my Inverter has a 35 amp max input, and when I switch on the solar panels, my total Amps in the system climbs to above 35, and the Inverter shuts down. This happen irregardless of whether the Hydro is switched on or off. I am puzzled, because I assumed that if I switched off the Hydro, I could go Solar, or vice versa. But at the moment, it seems that my system in constantly at 30 amps, at the battery, and when I turn on the Solar, the Inverter switches off. I feel like I am missing something, obviously. Can you help with an answer? Thanks, Steve
I would think that as well. But, when I connect the hydro by placing the switch to ON, the system stays at 30amps. When I turn the hydro switch to OFF, then add the solar panels, my system rises to 40amps (if the sun is on the panels, naturally). It is not like when I switch the hydro on, my system raises to 60 amps. So, why is the solar adding its amps, but not the hydro?
Hello, I am taking a guess but: Try putting a blocking diode so power only flows to the battery from the hydro or solar or both. If that does not work then you may need to seperate your systems. Use a CC for the solar only and another CC in diversion mode for the hydro.
Hello, I do have a diode from Windy Nation actually, in the input from the Solar (I just updated the graphic in my original post). However, I had long ago though about having my old Morningstar ProStar 30 CC in my setup...but didn't know if it would conflict with the Xantrex. Since the Morningstar monitors the battery bank as well, I just though have two stupid computer brains working together might cause issues. So, see the graphic below...is this what you are suggesting?
Yes that's it. Having it this way should now yeild you a good working system. Taking it further and estimating, 24v system at 290 amp hrs=6960 watt hrs @ 50% DOD=3480 Watt hrs.-15% efficinacy factor=2958 watt hours of useable power or 2.8kw. 15% is for temp, wire size and wire runs, battery efficiancy and inverter efficiancy. Your panels will need @24v and at about 8 amps=192 watt hrs x 4 hrs per day768 watt hrs/2958=3.8 (4) days of full sun to replenish your bank if your sun belt is a 4 rating, if taking the bank down to 50%. Not sure how dependable your hydro production is but that is icing on the cake to help replenish your bank even sooner. When doing off grid you should get to a goal of calculating power production from solar by the shortest sun belt day of the year. Our winters we are rated a 2 hr sun belt and in the summer we are a 4 hr rated sun belt. So when i calculate for lets say an off grid solar light I calculate for 2 hrs of full sun not 4. This allows for a worst case senerio plus adding in how many days of back up power you need to be bale to store in a battery bank. 3 days is the most common. Just to give you an idea of running 50watts continuous for 3 days is 72hrs x 50 watts =3600 watt hrs x 2=7200 watt hrs. (2) is for a 50% depletion ratio then add 15% for effciancy factors =8280 watt hrs/24v=345ah battery bank @ 24v. These are only estimated numbers but i think you get the idea. Please me know how it all works out
Yes that's it. Having it this way should now yeild you a good working system. Taking it further and estimating, 24v system at 290 amp hrs=6960 watt hrs @ 50% DOD=3480 Watt hrs.-15% efficinacy factor=2958 watt hours of useable power or 2.8kw. 15% is for temp, wire size and wire runs, battery efficiancy and inverter efficiancy. Your panels will need @24v and at about 8 amps=192 watt hrs x 4 hrs per day768 watt hrs/2958=3.8 (4) days of full sun to replenish your bank if your sun belt is a 4 rating, if taking the bank down to 50%. Not sure how dependable your hydro production is but that is icing on the cake to help replenish your bank even sooner. When doing off grid you should get to a goal of calculating power production from solar by the shortest sun belt day of the year. Our winters we are rated a 2 hr sun belt and in the summer we are a 4 hr rated sun belt. So when i calculate for lets say an off grid solar light I calculate for 2 hrs of full sun not 4. This allows for a worst case senerio plus adding in how many days of back up power you need to be bale to store in a battery bank. 3 days is the most common. Just to give you an idea of running 50watts continuous for 3 days is 72hrs x 50 watts =3600 watt hrs x 2=7200 watt hrs. (2) is for a 50% depletion ratio then add 15% for effciancy factors =8280 watt hrs/24v=345ah battery bank @ 24v. These are only estimated numbers but i think you get the idea. Please me know how it all works out
That's great. I never took the Morningstar off the panel back board, so I can easy swap the wires around. My hydro is constant from October through May–June, depending on the rain. As of now, the hydro is a 24v truck alternator, so it needs to spin at 1000+ RPMs to generate the lowest positive energy. But during the "good" months, it runs at 1970 RPMs. The future goal is to swap out the truck alternator and put in a BluePower PMA. Though the Bluepower is only rated at 14amps at 24v, it most likely can run year round, because it reaches 24v at 600 RPMs (though only 4 amp). Still, that is 24/7 power RE power! Now I need to find a way to create a current resistor between the battery and my Inverter, which maxes out at 35amp input.
That's great hydro production for that length of time. Treating each system as its own will really work great for you. Since you have a great source of hydro why would you go with such a small PMA? I understand that it needs to have a lower rpm cut in voltage but a bigger pma will do even better in lower hydro flow as well as higher. I have a wind blue PMA (540). It's a good little PMA but those delco types are just to small for any power from what I have personally found. You may want to look into something that is bigger in power to take advantage of that hydro. You may find a 1kw that reaches 24v in like 300 RPM. Again just my opinion, i am sure you have good reasons to your plan. lol I am not sure what you mean about using a current resistor? Would'nt a simple fuse work to protect your inverter? Thanks Larry
That's great hydro production for that length of time. Treating each system as its own will really work great for you. Since you have a great source of hydro why would you go with such a small PMA? I understand that it needs to have a lower rpm cut in voltage but a bigger pma will do even better in lower hydro flow as well as higher. I have a wind blue PMA (540). It's a good little PMA but those delco types are just to small for any power from what I have personally found. You may want to look into something that is bigger in power to take advantage of that hydro. You may find a 1kw that reaches 24v in like 300 RPM. Again just my opinion, i am sure you have good reasons to your plan. lol I am not sure what you mean about using a current resistor? Would'nt a simple fuse work to protect your inverter? Thanks Larry
Hey Larry, I also have the DC-540 PMA from Wind Blue (that is what I meant with blue power). A fuse will not work...well, it would work if it was a circuit breaker, but then the Inverter would simply lose the flow of electricity (it already shuts down itself, cycling until the amp current falls below 35, then comes online again). Unfortunately, it seems I have 3 choices at the moment: 1. Swap the truck alternator and put in the DC-540 PMA, lowering my total hydro/solar amps to max 25, thus remaining below the 35 amp max on my Inverter. 2. Only switch on my solar panels when the hydro fails in the off-months. 3. Purchase a larger/better Inverter that can handle upwards of 50+ amps. I would prefer the third option, since it would also provide me with more Watts. But, it all costs money.
